NAMIBIA - Serra Cafema, Kunene

Serra Cafema is located in the extreme, remote north-west of Namibia on the banks of the Kunene River in the Hartmann Valley, close to the Angolan border in the north. Undoubtedly amongst the most remote camps in Southern Africa, with hugely dramatic landscapes, Serra Cafema is only reachable by a three hour light aircraft flight from Windhoek. Mountains of largely folded metamorphic rock are cut through by rivers like the Kunene. The Kunene River is the only permanent source of water in the region, creating a lush oasis along its banks. Here a winding band of green is surrounded by the lunar-like landscape of the Namib Desert which stretches to the Serra Cafema mountain range in the north.

In rainy years, the large Marienfluss and Hartmann's valleys become grassy expanses, but mostly their flat topographies are covered by sand broken only by a few tough grasses, shrubs and the mysterious 'fairy circles'. These circular, slightly concave depressions are devoid of vegetation and often surrounded by a fringe of tall grass. Despite more than 25 years of research, the cause of these "fairy circles" is unknown.

In this isolated region, the Himba people continue their nomadic traditional way of life. The Himba are a tribe of nomadic pastoralists who are descendants of a group of Herero herders who fled into the remote north-west after been displaced by the Nama. The Himba have clung to their traditions and the beautiful Himba women are noted for their intricate hairstyles and traditional jewellery. Himba men and woman rub their bodies with red ochre and fat to protect themselves from the sun which gives their appearance a rich red colour.

Himba homesteads are cone shaped structures made from palm leaves, mud and cattle dung. During the course of a year the family will move from one home to another in search of grazing for the animals.

Like many others areas of Namibia, the main source of water comes from the early morning mists generated by the icy waters of the Atlantic Ocean colliding with the hot desert air of the coast. As the dew settles it is eagerly harvested by plants, animals and insects before the burning sun reaches midday heights.

ACCOMMODATION:

Accommodation at Serra Cafema consists of 8 riverside Meru-style canvas and thatched chalets on spacious raised decks. Each tent has an en-suite bathroom, ceiling fan and mosquito nets, as well as a deck with an inviting hammock.

The Ozonganda, or main area, comprises of indoor and outdoor dining areas, sunken lounge, river bar, library, curio shop and swimming pool, all with great views of the Kunene River. There are set daily menus for breakfast, lunch and dinner with tea/coffee available throughout the day.

Serra Cafema is an intimate, peaceful camp with a unique mix of rustic and luxury elements nestled amongst the shady Albida trees on the banks of the Kunene. Rapids just below camp provide a calming ambiance with guests often lulled into dreamland by the gurgling waters after a hard day exploring one of the driest, starkly beautiful regions in the world.

ACTIVITIES AND WILDLIFE:

Activities at Serra Cafema revolve around the exploration of surrounding Namib Desert sands and the lush oases along the river. Guided nature drives and carefully guided quad bike excursions through the fragile dunes allow guests to experience the true Namib - the utmost care is taken to tread lightly on the dunes and preserve the unique and delicate habitats of this landscape. Boating on the Kunene River is a highlight – particularly for sightings of crocodiles and water birds. Walking in the remote mountain and river valleys with a guide are also rewarding. A major highlight here is a visit to a Himba settlement. The fairy circle phenomenon is also best viewed in the Hartmann's Valley.

Game viewing in this area is limited to herds of gemsbok, springbok and Hartmann's mountain zebra. The Kunene River has a large population of Nile crocodiles. There are also a number of endemic reptiles, the desert chameleon being a particular specialty. Burchell's Courser and Benguela Long-billed Lark are among the characteristic bird species to be found in this area. Waterbirds along the Kunene River are always a surprise.